The Legend of Bung Bratak.

 

By Nikki Lugun

Sarawak Tribune 21/5/98

 

Ever since he could remember, Paul Nyopis has been coming to Bung Bratak for an annual pilgrimage. With his family, they would ascend the steep hill, which will forever stand as a testament to the bravery and courage of his people. This year was no different. Paul Nyopis, who is a Councillor from Orad again, climbed Bung Bratak on May 1st, for the annual ritual, which has become part of the celebration for the Bidayuh people of the area.

Climbing up Bung Bratak is by no means easy. Some of the sectors are steep and the only way to ascend is by virtually crawling up the natural granite steps carved into the hill. Roots of the huge trees allow climbers to get a sure footing. The task is made more difficult when it rains and small rivulets cause the mud to flow down the hill. It is an exhilarating trek though, and one can appreciate the beauty of the rainforest found on either side of the narrow path. Once at the top, the view is breathtaking. Mount Singgai is visible in the distance and is normally covered by mist and on a clear day, it is possible even catch a glimpse of kuching and its surrounding areas. There are two routes leading up to Bung Bratak and the one used for the May 1 climb is the route which was used by the original settlers to tend their rice fields at what is now known as the village of Tembawang Sauh. It is difficult to envisage the massacre and the destruction of the thriving settlement of bung Bratak more than a 160 years before. The original seven longhouses were burnt to the ground and the site is now overgrown with jungle. Despite the carnage that happened, the site now remains peaceful and serenity engulfs it. There are many legends associated with the place although many that know of the legend are sadly gone.

While Bung bratak stands eerily silent on most days of the year except for the occasional picnickers and tourists, on May1 St., it become a hive of activity. As many as thousands will ascend the hill and join in the activities planned for the day. Traditional games and competitions are held as well as cultural shows put up by members of the Bidayuh community. There is a belief that the water from a water hole at Bung Bratak has healing powers. Bidayuhs and increasingly some non-bidayuh take down bottles of water from Bung Bratak to bathe and treat their children who contracted the flu or colds. The healing powers of the water are well known among the people. It is said that the hole will never run dry and for generations, it had provided the original settlers with pure clean water.

Bung Bratak, located off 6th Miles Bau-Lundu Road via Kampung Tembawang Sauh, was once a large Bidayuh hill settlement of seven longhouses. Bidayuh elders of the Jagoi-Bratak origins from over 40 villages in Kuching Lundu and Bau districts were said to have originated from Bung Bratak. For many centuries, Bung Bratak that overlook the lush valleys of the surrounding areas has been known to be the cradle of civilization for the Bidayuh people where many great deeds were conducted and honored. A plaque found at the top of Bung Bratak traces the history of the site. In 1000 AD, a large group of people from Mt.Sungkong, Kalimantan moved to the site and made it their home. It was strategic location overlooking a lush valley of fertile ground. The natural stairway leading up to Bung Bratak, which is now used by the Bidayuhs to pay tribute to the site, was originally used as a route for the villagers to reach their farms.

For hundred of years, the well-fortified and well-guarded Bung Bratak provided peace and security to the settlers. It was a rather prosperous settlement at that time with a lot of rice stock and valuable gongs and jars. Many believe that it was for this reason that the others tribes in the area coveted the site. Many attempts were made to capture Bung Bratak and these failed due to the steep terrain and lookout posts manned by warriors who warned of impending attacks. It was in May 1837 when a large war expedition led by the Ibans from Skrang attacked the settlement and destroyed it. They had ascended the hill just before dawn using the leeward side to avoid detection from the lookout posts. It was said that 2,000 settlers were killed and 1,000 women and children were taken as slaves. The dead was later cremated according to the custom of those days and the survivors were scattered. Four years later, in November 1841, Penghulu Kulow, one of the last remaining survivors of the massacre appealed for help from the then first White Rajah, James Brooke. James Brooke intervened and with his help the women and children were returned to their homeland and peace one again prevailed. Penghulu Kulow and his followers never again settled in Bung Bratak but moved down to the surrounding lowlands. The memory of the attack was still fresh in their minds and it is from this time that their original settlement became to be revered and remained as a tribute to their ancestors.

Today the Bidayuhs from Kampung Selampit in Lundu District to Kampung Sirikin and Kampung Stass in the Bau District, as well as those from the Jagoi Babang area in kalimantan and Kampung Bowang in the Penrissen area of the Kuching district can trace their ancestry to Bung Bratak. In addition, over 40 Bidayuh villages recognise Bung Bratak as their original home.

HERITAGE

Its historical heritage and historical value to the Bidayuh community has long been recognised especially by the Dayak Bidayuh National Association. In 1986, thousands of Budayuhs, especially those in the Jagoi and Bratak area, trekked up to this ancient settlement on May 1, to pay homage to their ancestors and the settlement.

Over the years many government ministers including Tan Sri Datuk Amar Alfred Jabu and other ministers as well as foreign visitors joined the throng up to Bung Bratak on May 1st. Many came out of curiousity and to appreciate the historical significance of the settlement. The government has over the years provided grants for the upkeep of the settlement and the building of a traditional Bidayuh 'Baruk' and other basic facilities. The Sarawak Museum had also done some excavation at Bung Bratak, confirming its early history and ancient heritage.

At the celebrations this year, many Bidayuh leaders witnessed the event including the Assistant Minister of Finance and Public Utilities, Micheal Manyin anak Jawong who announce a grant of RM10,000 for Bung Bratak. The allocation would be used to upkeep Bung Bratak and build more steps to improve the stairway to the historical site. Also present at the celebrations were Tasek Biru State assemblymen En. Peter Nansian Ngusie, Tarat State assemblymen,Roland Sagah and Bung Bratak Day organizing chairman Peter Minos.

At the event, the people of the surrounding towns and villages of Bau, Kuching and Lundu Districts held various social and cultural activities. Beasts were slaughtered and rice was cooked by the villagers to feed the visitors to Bung Bratak. At night, a special dinner was held at Tembawang Sauh attended by all the members of the Bidayuh comunity and their leaders.